Sway Bars

The range is split into a few clear types:

• Fixed front or rear bars: thicker replacements for the factory bar, such as Hardrace bars for the Lancer Evolution VII–IX (CT9A), GR Yaris and GR Corolla.
• Adjustable bars: these have multiple end link positions so roll stiffness can be tuned front to rear. Examples include the Whiteline adjustable front bar for the 370Z (Z34) and Dinan adjustable bars for BMW.
• Front and rear sets: matched pairs such as the Eibach Anti-Roll Bar Kit and Dinan sway bar sets for BMW M2, M3 and M4.
• Add-on bars: Hardrace rear add-on bars for models such as the MG ZS and Mercedes-Benz G-Class (W463A).

Most kits include bushings and mounting hardware. Some, like the RV6 rear bar for the Civic Type R (FK8/FL5), come with end links. If the factory links are worn, or the bar sits at a different angle once the car is lowered, add adjustable sway bar end links at the same time.

Related parts:

• Sway Bar End Links
• Bushings
• Lowering Springs
• Coilovers
• Chassis Bracing
• Camber Arms
• Alignment Kits

Match the chassis code. Sway bars are listed by chassis code, for example Z34, FK8/FL5, CT9A, F87, G80/G82, E90/E92 or 8V/8Y. Bar diameters and mounting points often change across trims and model years. Confirm your model, year and trim against the fitment on each product page. AU-delivered variants can differ from US or JDM cars in bar diameter and bracket spacing.

Check the drivetrain. Some bars are drivetrain-specific. For example, Dinan lists separate BMW sets for xDrive and rear-drive versions of the same model, with different front bar diameters. APR offers a dedicated rear bar for the Audi RS3 (8Y) with RS Torque Splitter.

Compare the size. Bar diameter is listed in millimetres in each product title, from 15mm add-on bars up to 32mm front bars. A thicker bar is stiffer. Compare it with your factory bar to judge how big a change you are making.

Think about balance. Balance matters more than outright stiffness. A stiffer rear bar tends to loosen the car and reduce understeer, while a stiffer front bar does the opposite. Adjustable bars let you fine-tune the balance after springs, coilovers or wider tyres have changed the car's behaviour.

A sway bar mounts to the chassis through bushings and brackets, then connects to the suspension through end links. Rear bars are usually the simpler job. Front bars on some platforms need the subframe partly dropped or crossmember access.

Plan for the following:

• Fresh bushing grease
• New end links if the old ones are worn
• A wheel alignment if other suspension work is done at the same time
• Re-torquing and re-greasing the bushings after the first few hundred kilometres to avoid squeaks

Installation by a professional is recommended.

Will a sway bar fit my exact model and trim?
Check the fitment notes on each product page. Bar diameters and mounting points vary across trims, model years and drivetrains, and AU-delivered cars sometimes differ from overseas variants.

Do I need new end links as well?
Not always. Some kits include them, others reuse the factory links. Worn links or a lowered car are both good reasons to upgrade at the same time.

Front bar or rear bar first?
It depends on the car. Owners of front-wheel-drive and nose-heavy all-wheel-drive cars often start with the rear bar to reduce understeer. Rear-drive cars are more commonly balanced from the front.

Will a stiffer bar ruin the ride?
Less than stiffer springs would. A sway bar only works when the suspension moves unevenly side to side, so straight-line bumps feel much the same. Sharp one-wheel hits can feel slightly firmer.