Brakes

The range covers popular platforms including Subaru WRX and STI, Toyota GR86, 86 and BRZ, Toyota GR Yaris and GR Corolla, Nissan Silvia and Skyline, Mazda MX-5, Honda Civic Type R, VW Golf GTI and R, and BMW M cars, plus many other Japanese and European models. If your car isn't listed, send us the year, model and trim and we'll point you to the right parts.

Brake pads in street, sports and race compounds. Slotted, drilled and two-piece rotors. Stainless braided lines, high temperature fluid, big brake kits, callipers and rebuild kits, plus handbrake and pedal box components for track builds.

Quick guide: slotted rotors clear pad debris and gas and suit repeated hard stops. Drilled rotors look the part and shed heat quickly but are less forgiving under sustained track abuse. Two-piece rotors cut unsprung and rotating weight and let you replace just the disc ring later.

Factory brake systems are built around everyday driving and a price target. Add power, extra weight or repeated hard stops and the first thing you notice is a long, soft pedal as the pad compound and fluid get hot. A street compound pad with fresh fluid fixes most road cars. Cars seeing regular track time usually want a higher temperature compound, braided lines and better airflow before a big brake kit is worth the money.

Bigger rotors add thermal mass and leverage, but they don't fix boiling fluid or a tired master cylinder. The cheap parts of the system are worth sorting first. It's also worth matching front and rear compounds sensibly, since a much grippier front pad on stock rears changes the balance under trail braking.

Fitment depends on model, year and calliper type, including whether the car left the factory with single or dual-piston front callipers, or a Brembo package on higher trims. AU-delivered variants can differ from JDM or Euro-market equivalents, so check the exact trim before ordering. Big brake kits often require a minimum wheel diameter and specific offset for clearance, and some need bracket spacers. On older platforms, rotor changes can affect ABS reluctor ring placement.

Most pad and rotor jobs need a torque wrench, a calliper piston tool, fresh fluid and a bleed. Race compounds usually require a bedding-in procedure from the manufacturer before hard use. A smear of high temperature grease on the backing plates and contact points helps keep things quiet. Owners often ask their installer to check hose condition and calliper slide pins while the wheels are off.

• Suspension for the damping and geometry to put the braking to use
• Fittings and Hose for brake line hardware, fittings and adapters
• Exterior and Aero for ducting and airflow to the front brakes
• Interior for pedal box and handbrake components
• Cooling for the rest of the heat management on a track car

Will these brakes fit my car? Most listings are model and year specific. Check the fitment notes on the product page, or send us your VIN and we'll confirm.

Do you ship brakes Australia-wide? Yes, we ship nationwide.

What's the difference between street and race compound pads? Street compounds bite from cold, stay quiet and are gentler on rotors. Race compounds work at much higher temperatures but can be noisy, dusty and poor when cold.

Do I need new rotors with new pads? Not always. If the rotors are above minimum thickness, even and not cracked, new pads can go on with a light bed-in. Moving between very different compounds is usually better on fresh or machined rotors.

Is fluid worth changing at the same time? Yes. Old fluid absorbs moisture and boils early, which causes a soft pedal that no pad will fix.