Bushings

Bushings are listed for a broad spread of Japanese and European platforms, including Subaru WRX and STI, Toyota 86 / GR86 and BRZ, Nissan Silvia and Skyline, Honda Civic and Integra, Mazda MX-5, and European chassis such as the VW Golf and BMW 3 Series. Coverage depends on the kit and on which suspension point you're upgrading, so check the chassis code and build year on the listing before ordering.

The range splits into a few groups. Control arm and trailing arm bushings handle the biggest source of deflection under brakes and power. Sway bar mount bushings keep the bar located so it actually works at the rate it's rated for. Subframe, differential and pitch stop mounts cut driveline shuffle, which is where most of the slop lives on older turbo AWD cars. There are also full kits that cover multiple points in one go, which usually works out better if the car is old enough that everything is due.

Polyurethane resists the oil, heat and age-related softening that makes factory rubber sag. Less unwanted movement means sharper turn-in and alignment settings that hold under load. The trade-off is honest: a firmer ride and, on some cars, more noise through the floor. Poly suits a car that sees spirited driving or track days. If you want the factory feel back on a tidy street car, OE-style rubber replacements are the better call, and there's no shame in choosing them.

Most jobs mean removing the arm or subframe component, pressing the old bushing out, pressing the new one in, then torquing the fasteners with the suspension loaded at ride height rather than hanging free. Get that last part wrong and the bushing sits preloaded, which shortens its life. Installers generally use a hydraulic press or a proper bushing tool kit; a hammer and socket tends to distort tight factory bores. Poly kits usually come with grease for the sleeves, and it needs to be used. Some AU-delivered models had running changes that affect bushing size or arm design mid-generation, so match the chassis code and year. Budget for fresh bolts, nuts and sleeves if the originals are corroded or the design uses one-time-use fasteners. A wheel alignment afterwards is not optional.

• Control arms if the old bushing is seized into a tired arm
• Camber arms and toe arms for adjustable rear geometry
• Sway bars and sway bar end links to finish the roll control package
• Alignment kits for dialling in camber and caster afterwards
• Coilovers or lowering springs if ride height is changing at the same time
• Chassis bracing to reduce flex the bushings can't fix

Will these bushings fit my exact model and year? Fitment comes down to chassis code, model year and sometimes trim. Check the listing against your car, and get in touch if you're unsure.

Do I need special tools? Most kits require pressing the old bushing out and the new one in, so a hydraulic press or bushing tool kit is usually needed. Some sway bar and mount bushings are a simple bolt-off, bolt-on.

Are poly bushings noisier than rubber? They can transmit more road noise and vibration. Quality poly, properly greased on the sleeves, keeps it to a level most owners are happy with on a daily driver.

Do I need an alignment afterwards? Yes. Any bushing change at a control arm, trailing arm or subframe will shift camber and toe.

Do you ship Australia-wide? Yes, we ship across Australia. Warranty follows each manufacturer's policy, so contact us for details on a specific kit.