ARP Head Stud Kits
ARP Head Studs & Wheel Studs for Subaru, Toyota GR, Honda & Audi
We supply ARP fasteners for boosted builds on the Central Coast, from mild street cars running low boost to dedicated track engines seeing serious cylinder pressure. ARP head studs replace the factory torque-to-yield bolts with a stronger, reusable stud that clamps the head down evenly. We also supply ARP wheel studs for cars running wider wheels, more aggressive tyres or regular track days, where a factory stud is more likely to snap. Everything here is genuine ARP, matched to the engine or hub it's going on.
Shop by Vehicle
ARP head studs and wheel studs are available for:
- Subaru WRX & STI (EJ25)
- Toyota GR86 / Subaru BRZ
- Toyota Supra (2JZ)
- Honda Civic Type R
- Audi RS3
- Nissan Skyline GT-R (RB26)
If your platform isn't listed, get in touch and we'll check what ARP offers for it.
Shop by Product Type
- ARP2000 head stud kits
- ARP Custom Age 625+ head stud kits
- ARP wheel studs
Why ARP
Factory head bolts are designed to stretch once and get thrown away. They're fine at stock power, but wind the boost up on an EJ25 or a 2JZ and they start to lose clamping force right when you need it most. We've seen plenty of EJ25 short blocks come in with head lift and blown gaskets from running factory bolts past their power limit, usually somewhere north of 300kw where the stock bolts just can't hold the gasket down anymore. Swapping to ARP2000 studs fixes that: the stud design pulls straight down with no torsional twist, so the clamping load sits evenly across the whole gasket surface.
ARP2000 is the go-to for most built RB26, 2JZ and EJ25 engines running high boost, rated around 220,000 psi tensile strength. For engines pushing past that, typically dedicated drag or time attack builds running very high boost or compression, Custom Age 625+ steps up to over 260,000 psi. We'll help you work out which one actually suits your power target rather than just selling you the more expensive kit.
Wheel studs get overlooked until one snaps. Wider wheels, aggressive camber and track days all load up wheel studs more than a factory setup was designed for. ARP wheel studs are a common upgrade alongside coilovers or bigger brakes on cars doing regular track days at places like The Bend or Wakefield Park. We've seen factory studs shear on GR86s and WRXs running track wheels and spacers, usually picked up during a wheel change rather than out on track, which is exactly why it's worth sorting before it happens on a hot lap.
Fitment & Installation
Head stud kits are engine-specific: block casting, thread pitch and stud length all vary between EJ25, 2JZ, RB26 and the Honda K20C platform, so double check you're ordering the kit for your exact engine, not just the model name. Fitting head studs means pulling the head, so it's normally done alongside a gasket change, resurface or during a rebuild, not as a bolt-on job. Torque specs and sequence matter: ARP supplies its own lubricant and torque figures with each kit, and these are different from factory Nissan, Toyota, Subaru or Honda specs. Don't reuse factory torque values.
Wheel studs are hub-specific and need to match your wheel's bolt pattern and the stud length for your wheel offset and any spacers you're running. Pressing new studs in usually means pulling the hub or rotor, so factor that into install time. On cars running spacers, it's worth checking thread engagement in the nut before assuming a standard-length stud will do the job.
Pair with the rest of your build
- DIXCEL brake pads and rotors for cars getting a cooling and clamping upgrade alongside engine work
- TOMEI engine internals and gaskets for full rebuilds
- KORSH exhaust components for Central Coast based fitment and tuning
FAQ
Why upgrade to ARP2000 over factory head bolts?
Factory bolts are torque-to-yield, meaning they stretch permanently and can't be reused once removed. ARP2000 studs are reusable and hold their clamping force under sustained high boost, which is what stops head lift and gasket failure as power climbs.
When do I actually need Custom Age 625+ instead of ARP2000?
Custom Age 625+ is for engines running extreme boost or compression, generally dedicated drag or circuit builds where ARP2000's clamping load isn't enough. If you're on a street/strip EJ25 or 2JZ at moderate boost, ARP2000 is normally the right call.
Do I need new head gaskets and bolts when fitting studs?
Yes. Fitting head studs means the head comes off, so it's the right time to fit a new gasket. Reuse of old gaskets against new studs isn't recommended.
Will ARP wheel studs fit my wheels and spacers?
Stud length needs to suit your wheel offset and any spacers you're running. If you've changed wheels or added spacers since the car was factory, check stud length before ordering.
Do you help with fitment if I'm not sure which kit I need?
Yes, contact us with your engine code or chassis and we'll confirm the correct ARP kit for your build.
